What is the purpose of a body block in sewing?

A body block is a template. A basic model from which you can start and modify your garment as you wish. 

What is a body block?

It is the secret of the brands to avoid starting their models from scratch every time! A model without precise details.

A body block has no specific characteristics. It is a model with the right fit and the right cut, but without the details.

For example, a shirt body block will have:

• the right width

• the right length

• but it will not have cuffs, collar or pockets.

So when a company wants to develop a new model, it doesn't start from scratch. It is enough to take the desired model and modify only the details.

Adapted to a silhouette

There is no point in reinventing the wheel, but we can always try to improve it. 

So, companies work to improve their designs based on customer feedback and the more feedback they get, the better they are able to adapt their designs.

The great thing is that you can do the same thing at home as well! 

To do this, you will create your own library of templates. Let's see how:

The different body blocks

There are different basic patterns for different garments: skirts, trousers, bodices with clips, bodices without clips, knit bodices, jackets... 

Each one can be drawn with more or less ease.

But these are the most basic ones and they will have to be modified a lot to make a shirt or a jacket for example.

Create from your measurements

If you are already comfortable with pattern drafting, you can draw a basic template from your measurements

-> read this article to find out how to take your measurements  to help you with creating your own body block.

In a future article, we will see how to easily draw a body block in your size. 

If you want to know the method right away, I refer you to Gareth Kershaw’s book Pattern Cutting for Menswear.

It's a very complete and well explained book. 

Creating from existing garments

Another method, which, I think is easier, is to use the clothes you have at home. 

Choose the ones you like and that fit you well and copy them. 

There are 2 ways to do this:

• Cut out your garment and transfer it to paper.

There is nothing simpler than to obtain a pattern easily! 

To do this, take half of your garment and cut out the seams.

If your garment is symmetrical, cut out only one half and keep the other half as an example. 

If your garment is asymmetrical, make sure you take lots of photos of the seams, inside and out. This will help you remember how the garment was put together.

⚠️ Warning. If you have worn and washed it several times, your garment may have moved. You will need to correct on paper if you find the lines are a bit odd.

• Copy your garment onto paper without cutting it

On the left is the base, a Uniqlo t-shirt. On the right is the copy.

This method is a little more complex but it allows you to copy a garment without cutting it.

It works well for basics (t-shirt, straight trousers, shirt) but is not very suitable for complex pieces. 

The steps of the method:

- Find the middle front, mark it (chalk or basting thread) and measure the length.

- On your paper, draw a line that corresponds to the length of the middle front.

- Place your garment onto the pattern paper by matching the center front to the drawn line and pin it or use weights so it doesn’t move.

- Trace the outline of the seam lines with a pencil (if the seams are not on the side of the garment, use your fingers to feel the seams and trace them accordingly. 

- Take off your garment and trace again pretty lines with a Japanese ruler

When you copy a garment, you can copy all the little details that make you love the garment. 

But since the goal here is to create basics that you can come back to to create a variety of garments, it is important to keep your pattern as simple as possible.

The more complex a pattern is, the more difficult it is to modify. 

Modify your block

Once you have your basic body block, there are a few things you need to watch out for when modifying your body block, otherwise your pattern will change completely.

These parts are the

• shoulder lines,

• armhole

• and the top of your side seam

The rest you can change quite easily, in width or length!

Explore

In conclusion, a body block is a pattern without any specific details, which has basic proportions and which you can create from your measurements or from an existing garment.

You can explore your body block further by looking into the details. Keep a base: shoulder or armhole for example and start from there to create another base. 

This will help you develop your creativity and technique!

Have fun exploring and see you soon!