Mastering Knit Fabric Sewing: Tips and Tricks
Sewing with knit fabrics can seem intimidating at first, especially if you're used to working with woven fabrics. But once you master the basics, sewing with knits can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience.
Knit fabrics are comfortable, stretchy, and versatile, making them perfect for a variety of garments and accessories. However, they do require some special techniques and considerations to get a professional-looking finish.
In this article, we will share some of our top tips and tricks for mastering knit fabric sewing. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced sewist, these tips will help you achieve great results with your next knit fabric project.
So grab your sewing machine and let's get started!
Choosing the right knit fabric
When you go to the shop to buy your knit fabric, you'll be faced with a pretty big choice. So here is a list of 4 different types of knit fabric, their characteristics and an explanation of how you can use them for your projects.
Jersey: this is called single knit and is the most basic knit. It is usually used for t-shirts or underwear. The fabric curls when you cut it.
Double jersey or double rib. The knit is reversible, it is like a jersey on the front and on the back. It is used for polo shirts, underwear or sweaters.
Rib knit. You can clearly see the columns of knits on both sides of the fabric. This gives it a flexibility on the sides that is very useful for finishing cuffs, collars or waistbands. This is because the fabric replaces itself nicely when pulled.
Interlock. Very similar to a double jersey but with a little twill effect. The knit is reversible, does not roll and is lighter than double jersey. It is used for jackets, baby clothes and sportswear.
The truth is that there are many more types of knit fabrics and I hope to show you all of them one day. Don't hesitate to tell me in the comments if such an article would interest you!
Preparing knit fabrics for sewing
When you prepare your fabric, you will have to wash it before you can do anything.
There are several reasons for this:
Prevent shrinkage due to washing and place the fibres in their final position.
Prevent an unexpected change of colours as the dying might fade away slightly during the first wash.
Removing any finishing that will not survive machine cleaning.
Wash the knitwear in the washing machine as you will do when your garment is done, especially as knitwear is a stretchy material and the fibres need to be repositioned correctly.
Once the fabric has been washed, dry it flat to prevent it from stretching too much, then iron it with steam (or decatize your fabric as we say in sewing jargon)
Knit fabric should be cut very flat. Be careful that the fabric does not pull (if it falls on the side of the table for example, leave enough slack so that there is no tension. Use weights in different places to control your fabric and cut it peacefully.
Tools and techniques for sewing with knits
As knitwear is a stretchy fabric, you want to keep that elasticity. That's why a straight stitch isn't ideal. In addition, a regular straight stitch doesn't allow for any stretch in the seam, which can cause the thread to break or the fabric to pucker. Instead, it is recommended to use a stretch stitch that allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the seam such as the zigzag stitch, the lightning stitch, or the overlock stitch.
Here is a picture of the different extensible stitches, so you can see if your machine sews them. On my machine those stitches are marked in blue.
Of course, if you have an overlock machine, it is the best option. I just got one last year and I am so happy about it! The next buy will be a coverlock machine that allows a different type of sewing.
Also, choose the right needle and thread to avoid damaging the fabric or breaking the seam.
A ballpoint needle is recommended for knit fabrics because it has a rounded tip that slides between the knit fibres, rather than piercing them. This helps to prevent runs or holes in the fabric.
As for thread, polyester or nylon thread is best for sewing knit fabrics because it has a bit of stretch and won't break as easily as cotton thread.
Stretching or puckering can be a common issue when sewing with knit fabrics. To prevent this, use a walking foot to evenly feed the fabric through the machine or a teflon foot. The teflon foot has a non-stick surface that allows it to easily slide over heavyweight fabrics, preventing bunching and uneven stitching.
Troubleshooting common issues
Skipped stitches:
Skipped stitches are a common issue when sewing with knit fabrics, especially if you're using a regular straight stitch. To prevent skipped stitches, use a stretch stitch or a ballpoint needle, which is designed to slide between the knit fibers instead of piercing them. If you're still experiencing skipped stitches, try adjusting the tension on your machine or interfacing to reinforce the fabric.
Stretched-out seams:
When sewing with knit fabrics, it's important to avoid stretching the fabric as you sew. If you're experiencing stretched-out seams, try using a walking foot or a stretch needle to help the fabric feed through the machine evenly. You can also try using a shorter stitch length, which can help to prevent the fabric from stretching out. If the fabric has already stretched out, you may need to unpick the seam and start over with a shorter stitch length or more stable fabric.
Wavy hems:
Try using a twin needle, which creates two parallel lines of stitching that allow the fabric to stretch without puckering.
Other tips:
When sewing with knit fabrics, it's important to handle the fabric gently and avoid pulling or pushing it through the machine too much. You can also try using a teflon foot or a walking foot to help the fabric feed through the machine evenly. Additionally, be sure to use the right thread and needle for the fabric, as using the wrong type can cause issues like skipped stitches or fabric damage.
Conclusion
While choosing your fabric is already a big part of the job, preparing it well and using the right tools are even more important.
The great thing about knitwear is that it is a flexible material, much more vibrant than woven fabric, and will allow you to take your creativity to a whole new level.
As we all know, practice, trial and error is where you learn. So don't be afraid to make mistakes, try again and again to get used to it and you will master knit fabric sewing in no time!